Symptoms:

• Darting around tank or rubbing against glass or ornaments.
• Clamped fins
• Lethargy
• Lack of appetite
• Labored breathing
• Color loss
• Yellow, or rust colored dust on fish's body, fins or gills. Dust may be clumped into patches. To check for this, turn off aquarium lights and shine a flashlight on your fish.

Note: Your fish may only exhibit one or two of the symptoms, but the most important one is the visible dust on your fish. Clamped fins, lethargy, labored breathing and lack of appetite are signs of an advanced case. Many people mistake velvet for one of the white and fuzzy diseases and is often missed.

Velvet is a parasitic form of algae. It is a dinoflagellate, like ick/ich, but it also contains chlorophyll like plants so it is an algae. Velvet is present in both fresh and saltwater aquariums. It attacks stressed fish by attaching themselves to the gills and sucking nutrients straight from the fish. The gills are attacked first, and then the rest of the body.

Velvet attacks stressed fish. Any time there is a drastic temperature fluctuation, a change in tanks or poor water quality, your fish is at risk to acquire velvet. Any new fish should be quarantined for a few weeks before being added to a community tank. Since velvet is highly contagious, a community tank would suffer greatly from a stressed new arrival.

Active ingredients to fight velvet are copper sulfate (CopperSafe, Velvet Guard) or malachite green (Maracide). Copper sulfate is commonly used to kill algae in ponds. Care must be taken while using medications containing malachite green as it will stain everything and is actually poisonous if ingested. These medications tend to be very stressful for your fish and will probably cause a difficulty in breathing since the oxygen in your water is being replaced by medication. Adding an air stone if you don't already have one would be beneficial. Lowering your water level so that your bettas have less distance to swim to reach the surface would also help them out. Methylene blue is a chemical that helps your fish breathe and would be beneficial to add along with the the velvet treatment to give your fish an easier time.

Note: Velvet has a stage where it detaches from the fish and multiplies before reattaching to either the same fish or a new one, so even if you can't see it anymore, follow all of the instructions on the medication you choose carefully.

• Quarantine all new fish for several weeks before adding to a community tank.
• Add a small dosage of CopperSafe to the water after doing large water changes.
• Use aquarium salt in your aquarium. Do not add every water change or you will over salt your fish! Add every 5th or 6th water change.
• Follow proper water change procedures to ensure the tank water is super clean.

Symptoms:

• Darting around tank or rubbing against glass or ornaments. 
• Small black dots on fish. Will look raised like a pimple.
  

Black spot disease is actually the larvae of a digenetic fluke embedded in the skin of the fish. These parasites have a very complicated life cycle that starts with a mollusk, moves to a fish, and then to a bird.

Black spot disease is common among fish living in ponds or lakes. It normally occurs after having added new fish or snails. Be sure to keep new fish quarantined for a week or two before adding to an existing tank.

Since the black spot disease has such a complicated life cycle, no real treatment is necessary. The cysts produced are relatively harmless to the fish, unless the fish is a highly contaminated juvenile which may result in death if not treated. There are a few medications out there for Fluke infestations.

• Make sure that you quarantine all new fish for a week or two before adding to a community tank.

Symptoms:

• Darting around tank or rubbing against glass or ornaments
• Excess mucus
• White or gray film over fish may be only on gills
• Labored breathing
• Lethargy

Chilodonella is a ciliated protozoan which means it is a one celled creature with whip-like appendages used for swimming.

If the water temperature is too low or a fish is stressed, the chilodonella protozoa will take this opportunity to attack the skin and gills. This is a highly contagious disease, and care should be made to not pass it to other tanks, and to thoroughly clean all equipment. If fish is affected in a community tank, treat the entire tank.

Many medications that treat for ich/ick can be used to treat for chilodonella. Active ingredients in these medications are malachite green (Maracide), or formalin (Formalin-3). Raising the temperature to 80F (26.7C) will help with treatment. Make sure when raising the temperature to only raise 1 to 2 degrees an hour so as not to stress your already sick fish. The temperature should be kept as steady as possible.

• Like many diseases, this is caused by stress from either poor water quality, fluctuating temperatures, or even a change in tank. Keeping your water clean and your temperature at a steady 76-82F (24.4-27.8C) will help decrease stress in your fish. Use of aquarium salt will aid your fish in developing a protection against disease and injury.

Symptoms:

• Swollen stomach
• Scales sticking out, when viewed from the top, fish will look like a pinecone
• Lethargy
• long pale feces

Dropsy itself is not a disease but the visible signs of internal organ failure. When the kidneys shut down, the fish absorbs too much water which causes swelling and the scales to stick out at a 90 degree angle.

The fish may have had an internal bacterial or viral infection that attacked its organs first. While dropsy itself is not contagious, the virus or bacteria that caused it in the first place is! You should isolate any fish with dropsy.

Unfortunately by the time the pineconeing of scales is noticed, the internal organs have already begun to be damaged.  Since the majority of the time dropsy is caused by a virus, there is nothing you can really do besides raising the temperature and keeping your fish comfortable while they try and survive and fight off the infection. It is also an option to treat for a bacterial infection in the hopes that was the cause.  Survival from dropsy is rare.

• Dropsy was somewhat linked to the feeding of live black worms. While you should vary your betta's diet with plenty of live foods, it may be safer to avoid black worms.

Symptoms:

• White film over eyes

Eye fungus is caused by a saprolegnia fungus. If the eyes do not have a cottony white film over eyes, but a translucent film over the lens of the eye, then it could be a gram-negative bacterial infection. Fish naturally have a translucent bubble over their eyes so be careful in this diagnosis.

Like many fungus infections, it is caused by stress which in turn is caused by poor water quality, fluctuating temperatures or a change in tank.

If your fish is exhibiting the white film over it's eyes, Copper sulfate, or Forma-Green can be used. If you suspect the gram-negative bacterium, Kanamycin Sulfate, Gentamycin Sulfate or TMP Sulfa can be used.

• Keeping the water clean and temperature steady as well as the use of aquarium salt will help to keep your fish stress free.

Symptoms:

• White spots on fish that look like grains of salt
• Large white spots on fish, not fluffy like cotton

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis also known as ick/ich is a ciliated protozoan that lives in most water. It is a single celled organism that for certain stages of its life will burrow into your fish's skin to suck off nutrients.

Harsh changes in temperature can commonly cause ich. Other stressful situations might trigger an ich infection as well.

There are many commercial ich medications, and most any pet store will carry a medication as ich is a very common disease for aquarium fish.

• Keeping your water at a steady temperature and the water clean will help protect against ich.

Symptoms:

• Visible worms hanging from fish
• Fish darts and scratches against glass or tank ornaments

Anchor worms are another form of parasitic crustacean.

These crustaceans are free swimming when young and then burrow into your fish's skin and may take several months before they are large enough to show. They then release eggs and die. When the worms die they leave behind holes that may become infected.

The worms may be removed with tweezers, but they may be deeply embedded in the muscle of the fish. If there is too much resistance when trying to remove the worm, a 10 – 30 minute bath in 10 mg of potassium permanganate per liter can be done. Entire tank can be treated with 2 mg per liter, but will dye the water and is a mess.

• Using aquarium salt every 3-5 water changes will prevent against many forms of parasitic infection on your fish.

Symptoms:

• Fins look shorter and shorter, like they are dissolving or shredded
• There may be a dark, red or white edge to the fins
• Base of fins may be inflamed
• Fins may be clamped
• Fish may have stopped eating
• Loss of color

Fin rot is caused by one or more of several gram negative organisms. Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, or Vibrio are the most common.

This disease is very common and caused by stressed fish. The most common cause of stress in fish is poor water quality. Poor water quality might result from overcrowding of an aquarium, old fish food, or overfeeding. A fish may also be stressed from being handled. Low temperatures for fish with long flowing fins is a common cause of stress as well as an incorrect pH for the fish. PH tests are available at your local pet store.

If your fish has fin rot from poor water quality, the first thing you should do is a water change. Treatment with an antibacterial medication that works for gram negative bacterium such as Tetracycline or Maracyn are good choices. Follow the directions that come with the medications. Addition of 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per every 10 US gallons will also help your fish reduce stress.

• Since this disease stems from poor water quality, vacuuming out all uneaten food and feces will help keep your water clean. Also dating your fish food will help prevent accidental feeding of old food. Keeping the proper water conditions for the fish that you own will help reduce their stress and increase their immune systems. Do no overcrowd your tank and watch for fights between your fish as their fin tearing might be a result from a fin nipper.

Symptoms:

• Fish has difficulty swimming, will either float at the top or have difficulty reaching the surface to breathe
• Floating fish may have a swollen stomach and might appear to be dead

Fish all have a special organ called a swim bladder which helps them regulate their position in the water. 

Swim bladder disorder is caused by overfeeding, or lack of variety in your fish's diet. When your fish seems to slide along the bottom and struggles to reach the surface, their swim bladder is too short. When they float and struggle to swim deeper it is because their swim bladder is too short and swollen.

While some fish will recover on their own, the first order of business is to either feed them less, or vary their diet more. Another method is the same as when a fish has constipation. Fast your fish for a day or two and then attempt to feed them the inside of a cooked peeled pea. Make sure the pea is in small enough pieces for your betta to eat. If your betta refuses to eat the pea, then fast for another day or two and try again. Do this for a week or two, alternating fasting and peas until your fish is back to normal.

• Since overfeeding is one of the main causes of SBD, feeding your fish less and removing any uneaten food after 5 mins will help prevent it. If it was caused by a lack of variation in your bettas food, make sure you are feeding them two or three foods such as pellets, flakes, or live/freeze dried/frozen foods such as bloodworms for treats.

Symptoms:

• Fish is near the surface
• Fish gasps for breath
• Gills are reddened

The two biggest reasons for fish to have inflamed gills is due to ammonia poisoning or nitrite poisoning. With ammonia poisoning, fish's gills will have a reddened lavender color.

All fish tanks need beneficial bacteria in order to process fish waste. There is a bacteria that takes ammonia (fish waste) and turns it to nitrite and a bacteria who takes the nitrite and turns it to nitrate. While all 3 of these are poisonous to fish in the right amounts, it is very common in a new tank or a tank smaller than 10 gallons to have poisonous levels of ammonia or nitrite.

A large water change will help to dilute the levels of poisonous chemicals in the water. Do this every other day until ammonia and nitrite readings are normal. Ammonia, nitrate and nitrite test kits should be on hand to monitor these levels especially when breaking in a new tank. Water conditioners such as AmQuel + by Kordon should be used to neutralize the ammonia and nitrite in your tanks. This water conditioner is not a replacement for water changes, but an aid.

• Be sure to monitor all new tanks for spikes in ammonia then nitrite and then make sure to keep the nitrate levels down. If you have a smaller tank, you should always be on the look out for spikes. There are small ammonia readers to attach to the inside of the tank. These are cheaper than the standard ammonia test kit and give an immediate reading.

Symptoms:

• Loss of color
• Loss of appetite
• Clamped fins
• Lethargy
• Red sores

Bacteria is everywhere, in your tap water, in filtered water, on your hands, in the air, etc. Occasionally there is a bacterial bloom that infects your fish. It is very similar to you getting sick from bacteria you encounter in your day.

There are any number of ways bacteria got to your fish, but the most preventable ways is through fouled water from uneaten fish food or fish waste. Different bacteria will effect your fish differently.

Do a large water change, 100% for small tanks and 70% for large filtered tanks. This will get rid of a lot of the bacteria in the water. Clean filter and remove anything that may be rotting in the water (uneaten food, waste, dead fish/plants). There are a wide variety of antibacterial medications for fish, but be aware that some of them are for gram-positive bacteria, some for gram-negative bacteria, and some for both. Since it is an internal infection, it is safer to use the broad spectrum medications. Follow the instructions for whatever medication you purchase until your fish is better. It may take more than one cycle to kick the infection.

• By keeping your tank water as clean as you can manage and regularly removing waste and uneaten food, you reduce the chance of a bacterial bloom that may infect your fishes.

Symptoms:

• Loss of appetite
• Swollen stomach
• Has not pooped

Fish get constipation just like humans. Your fish is just having trouble pooping.

They can get constipation by eating too many freeze dried foods or a lack of variety in their diet.

If available, daphnia (water fleas) acts as a laxative for bettas. If not the peeled pea method can be used. Fast your fish for a day or two and then attempt to feed them the inside of a cooked peeled pea. Make sure the pea is in small enough pieces for your betta to eat. If your betta refuses to eat the pea, then fast for another day or two and try again. Do this for a week or two, alternating fasting and peas until your fish is back to normal.

• By feeding your fish a varied diet and only using freeze dried foods as a treat, you can help prevent constipation. If you feed your betta pellets, soaking them in a bit of their tank water for a few minutes before feeding it to your fish will help your fish digest them easier.

Symptoms:

• Whitish marks around the mouth
• White cottony fluff around his mouth
• Red ulcers and white cottony fluff on the body
• Frayed Fins

Flexibacter is commonly called mouth fungus, but it is not a fungus at all but a bacterial infection.

Flexibacter is caused by poor water quality.

Any antibacterial medication that treats against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacterial infections will work. Water should be changed before beginning treatments.

• Make sure to keep your water cleaned regularly. Smaller tanks without filters will need more water changed more frequently than a larger tank with a filter.

Symptoms:

• Cottony tufts on fins or body
• Less active
• Loss of appetite
• Loss of color
• Clumped fins

While mouth fungus is a bacterial infection, body fungus is a saprophitic fungi. This fungus normally attacks wounds on the fish's skin, or may even grow on the edge of fins being attacked by fin rot.

Any open wounds on your fish are subject to fungus attacks. Also stressed fish will have a compromised immune system which may lead to possible fungal infections.

Many brands make a fungal medication such as Jungle's Fungus Eliminator, or Mardel Lab's Maracyn will work to help clean up the fungus. If it is a mild case, API's PimaFix is an antifungal and antibacterial solution.

• If any open sores are present, treat them with Bettafix or Melafix to prevent infections and help the healing process. Both of these are made of tea tree oil which will smell strongly and leave an oily residue on the top of the water which should be scooped off.